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It was another intruiging day of escorted passage, today flanking the Afghanistan border, as far as Dalbandin half way to Quetta. The km stretch was interspersed with stations of the Taftan Rifles all along the route, and we were pretty much following an old railway line too. Every so often there were checkpoints and we were pulled over to a halt.

Our Levies came over and mostly I had to climb off the bike with our passports, go into a shady outpost box, and fill out a ledger with all our passport and visa details. After the first stop, Stew was able to ask the elder Levie, that we needed petrol, so not much further along, they stopped again at another mud hut. We were soon brought out 1. They were a friendly group of guys and young lads, all known to the Levies, and after the fuel fill we were even brought over small dishes of sweet hot tea.

The first km the road was pretty rough in places, we were getting bounced and shook all over the place, and then we hit some sand dunes too — so we wobbled quite a bit getting through on our road tyres. The day was pretty clear and bright, and not too hot or uncomfortable. A lot of the day there was a decent breeze across the vast expanse of desert, and dust devils were like sprites dancing their way across the sands, as we danced our way between the potholes.

The scenery was mesmersing, changing desert landscapes, and even shimmering mirages, After about km stretches, we were driven into the next Levies station, where crews and vehicles were changed, the preceeding group returning to their base. At least this gave Stew chance to…. The facilities were mostly pretty basic though — with electrics always looking dodgy. At each place most of the men spoke some English, and we were always well greeted, and pretty much asked the same questions; what was our country, are we married, how old we were, how many children, what are our jobs — and where were we going.

We generally reciprocated, finding out that most of the men were married with up to 6 children, one of the guys even had 2 wives.

At the first levies station, a young officer spoke quite good English, and Stew ended up giving him his Mexican skull bracelet it seemed much appreciated, and like it had gone to a good home , as was asking about our ID bands and the other things Stew had on his wrist. So we set off again, out of the small town passed the petrol station and local bus stop, trying load even more into an already loaded bus!!

And onto more spectacular desert road scenery.

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This image caputured so much — the petrol drums, motorbike, camel and graffitti on the mudshack! So we were glad to hear the intention was we slept at a hotel when we got to Dalbandin, and so with our last support crew of the day we headed off.

It was an old slow Toyota diesel pick up, that even had a big Pelican bird tied up in the back — we set off and crawled along at between 50 — 60 kph. It was painfully slow and going to take another hour to cover the distance as the road was reasonably good, and we could have gone much faster , and our achy bums were definitely getting to their limit of endurance for the day. We were well relieved when we finally pulled into the secure compound at the rear of the dusty desert Al Dawood hotel. The Levies crew soon bade farwell, leaving one officer to stay with us for the night with his AK47 , and the hotel staff.

The bathroom was servicable, though rather gregarious — OTT porcelain set in bright yellow and white. The sheets looked clean, but there were no towels or toiletries, and everything was covered in a fine layer of desert dust. It was definitely up to our needs for the night, and we were soon left alone to recuperate.

Stew had a quick shower first, and drip dried, then managed to make one mug of tea, before our element finally clapped out after first giving Stew an electric shock , so we shared it with a couple of digestive biscuits and peanut butter from our supplies. We were visited by one of the hotel staff and our Levie.

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We asked if we could buy water, and he said yes, there is a small shop outside. So I went along, and found the tiny dusty shop, right next to the hotel front door. I managed to get a 1. One of the staff, a young man, spoke quite good English, came to the room later and he told us there was a night manager who would be along later and would organise food and drink for us We were hoping for beer, but it never materialised.

Then at 7pm the power came on again, and we were shown to a dining area, with a TV playing. While we waited we watched the end of a Bollywood movie on the TV, and our Levie keeping an eye on us too. We were both getting tired, and glad when the food arrived around 7. It was basic, one plate of chicken curry on the bone , in a thin sauce, and one plate of bhindi curry, with 2 large nans.

The Levie was also given a chicken curry and nan too. After that we took oursleves off to our room, with a last knock form the staff, with the bill asking for payment. It was Rupees, for the nights stay and the meal for 3. Stew managed to finish off his latest book, while I had a shower and typed some of the diary.

The room was quite warm, so we left the ceiling fan going as we bedded down for the night. We were awake in plenty of time to make ourselves tea and breakfast. So we had quite a nice coffee table set of sliced bread, cheese spread, vegemite and peanut butter. We got our bags ready dressed in our riding gear, and headed downstairs just before 9am.

The levies were around and a couple of staff, and we managed to buy a 1.

Everyone was round looking at the bike its so unusual round here , so we were able to take a few photos before we set off 9. It was another plastic bottle fill, but at least the guy had a funnel today. The Levies changed vehicles and personel like hot cakes today! They seem a good bunch of guys, doing a good job, in a harsh and difficult environment. Their working conditions at the outposts were so rudimentary; little comforts or delapidated furnishings, and a bit of shade from the elements, nothing more than a sleeping mat, a single gas burner, kettle, a car battery to support the radio communications.

The first stretch seemed the longest before a change, and we crossed some pretty rough road and sand dunes again.

The day was clear and bright, and the desert sun not too warm, the early morning breeze was in fact quite cool. We passed across all forms of desert and scrub, mostly following a single track rail line, and military outposts and stations. Small mud villages sprang into view, hardly discernable from the landscape.

We were quite surprised to see several with solar panels. The vast landscapes vanished off to the distant mountains of Afghanistan on our left, and other mountain ranges came into view on our right. Often outside the villages were tall chimneys and brick works — and so many of them spewing black smoke into the air. I think we saw more camels than anything else.

Anywhere there were homesteads, villages or town we mostly only saw men and boys. The only time we saw women was a couple of times working in the fields, or collecting water — and that was more like young girls. They seem so separate from the men, even the school children were in separate girl and boy groups, and we really only saw boys out playing or on bicycles, and of course, there were only boys playing cricket on some bit of open ground. Stew was trying to keep a good distance back.

There was quite a bit of other road traffic too, coaches and trucks piled high with people and goods, making for some fascinating glimpses of the lives round here. And so often we had to weave in an out of the lanes, to avoid the slower vehicles. Some of the levies were in utes and at other times we were following motorbikes too.

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The trucks and coaches are so wonderfully decorated, and many times we saw passengers riding top deck, with the baggage, or clinging onto the back. The first escort vehicle actually pulled us over for a tea stop. The other younger guys were much more pleasant, just happy to have these unusual foreigners about, and enjoy our strange attire and transport. We had photos taken so many times through the day. At one stop, the next levie crew were just having some lunch, so we were taken into a leafy canopy out of the sun.

There was an open cot, and delapidated chair to sit on. Most places the lads spoke some English, so communication was pretty easy. And here we had a very lively, Muhamad Farook, who wanted a photo with Stew. I could have helped too, but it was a great opportunity for a bit of GoPro and photos.

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We had another tea stop later in the afternoon at a one man outpost, a mud shack on a high point, with great views of the road ahead. There was a young levie officer, and an older helper. He was so chirpy, brewing us some tea, and offering us great chunks of sugar. They break off a chunk, put it between their teeth, and sup the tea through it. They were surprised to see us enjoying unsweetened black tea.

As we slowly made our way east things gradually began to change, we were leaving the desert plains, and agriculture sprang up wherever there was a water supply. By the time we stopped at Nushki the closest city to Afghanistan — maybe 10 km away , we were taken to our first petrol pump to tank up. And not much further on we were heading to the LakPass — a final climb and tunnel, emerging onto an actual dual carriage way, we could see the sprawling expanse of Quetta in the basin below.

The sun was sinking fast, and a shadow was crossing over the face of the city.

Here we had to sit and wait at least 15 mins for the next support car, just watching the sun sinking further. There were so many different security forces here; highway patrol, anti terrorism squad, commandoes, and levies, and they all greeted us well, slinging their weapons over their shoulders. Quetta was only 5 km away, so near yet so far — and when our escort finally arrived, it turned out to be at least another 45 mins to actually get through the mayhem of the city, at rush hour!!

And still another 3 escort vehicle changes.

As we descended into the heart of the city, it really was something like you only see on the movies. The hoardes of humamity going about their evening business, shopping, markets, engineering, buses, AND so many trucks, buses and tut-tuts on the road. There definitely was heightened security as we saw military station posts sandbagged, and as we got to our next escort change found it was an APC Armoured peronal carrier.

At times the rear door of the APC opened, and the officer was directing other traffic to move away, so Stew could get back behind him — he was doing a great job. And every few minutes it was just getting darker and darker. We were switched again to another APC, and seemed to be following one long arterial road right into the city. I could make out a lighted bridge coming up and we diverted to the side, coming to stop under the flyover.

Here we were transferred onto our final escort.

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