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Tarentum is now Taranto, and from that place the supply comes yet to Brindisi, and the quality is such that they may be recommended. Brindisi was Brindusium in the past. The form of the harbour, being homed, or crescent- shaped, is supposed to have given origin to this. The Appian Way, which begins at Rome, ended at Brindisi, Two columns of CipolUno marble marked its termination, and one of these stands to the present day, almost perfect, on a terrace close to the harbour. The capital and some of the drums of the other column were carried off to Lecce, to make a base for a statue of the Virgin in the market- place, and the pedestal is nearly all that is now left.

The capital of the one remaining is worthy of an inspection. Perhaps the reason for this idea is that the two columns may be found represented in old sculptures, on the walls and other parts of the town, with a coronet still over them. In the centre of the market-place is a fountain formed of an ancient tazza, and it is ornamented in its centre with a bronze representation of the pillars, and a circling crown above them. If you drink a bottle of Brindisi wine and a very fair wine is to be got here , the label will in all likelihood have on it the stag's head and horns, with the two pillars and crown.

These two columns are so like to Jachin and Boaz, and Brindisi being an Oriental port in ancient times, one is inclined to ask, may there not have been some relationship? The Casa Virgile is close to the two columns, and no one who has a few moments even to spare but will take a look at the old house. I sketched it on my first visit, and in those early days tlie woman who lived there did not quite comprehend why strangers should come into her abode.

Since then I suppose she has got accustomed to it.

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I have doubts as to the age of the building. Some of the details have more the look of mediaevalism about them than the classic look of old Roman Architec- ture. I am now, from long experience, inclined to believe that all traditions have generally some form or another of truth as a basis — and this may have been in all proba- bility the spot where the Koman poet ended his days, and yet the superstructure may not be of that date.

The large stones, and more solid look of the masonry towards the lower part, which is so different from the varied patchwork above, helps to confirm this idea, and whether it be or be not the house where Virgil died, it is a quaint piece of antiquity. Amongst the many antiquities of Brindisi is a Templars' church. It is round in plan, as Templars' churches usually are, and in a ruinous condition, as if it had not been used as a place of worship for centuries.

The roof is gone, but there are some fine old pillars, which no doubt belonged to some temple before they were part of a Christian church. Fragments of fresco adhere to the walls. When here on my first visit, I had the pleasure of making the acquaintance of a very learned, and at the same time a most agreeable man, the Archdeacon Tarantini, who is a very celebrated archaeolo- gist, and well versed in the antiquities of Brindisi, which he has made a special study. On my last visit I renewed my acquaintance with the Archdeacon, and he took me to see his last discovery.

It is an ancient underground church, or crypt, beneath the Church of St. It is very small, reminding one in this respect of the chapels of the Catacombs, Four fragments of antique marble columns support the arched roof, and very tall capitals in the Corinthian style connect the columns with the arches. One of these capitals is most beautifully carved, with much of the feeling of old Greek art about it. One would expect to find a cross in these capitals, and not finding it, one begins to believe that, Uke the fragments of columns beneath them, they are pre-Christian.

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But a closer inspection brings out four heads, heads of animals too, all having mitres upon them, and the Archdeacon declares that the mitre is not found in writings or pictures before the sixth century. This agrees with the date he ascribes to the churqh. The walls have been whitewashed ; but this covering has peeled off in some places, leaving visible many fragments of fresco paintings.

These fragments of art are very curious and valuable, as bearing on the ideas of the Church at an early period of its history. Clementi at Rome, and whoever has visited it will understand the importance of the still older frescoes in Brindisi. Nicholas and St. Basil can be made out; but the most interesting, and perhaps the most ancient, is a Virgin and Child.

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The Infant has the right hand in the act of benediction ; but instead of the two forefingers and thumb being held up, as is now the manner in the Latin Church, the thumb seems in the picture to touch the third and fourth fingers, leaving only the two fingers erect. The Archdeacon believes that it was a church or oratory in itself ; but the probability is that in later times it was the crypt of a church which stood over it. There are evidences of passages and stairs leading down on each side. If this were the case, it was a spot of great sanctity, and no doubt a much finer church than the modern one of St.

Lucia, at present above it, whose aspect is of the most tawdry description. The mails, which leave London on Friday evening, reach Brindisi early on Monday morning. The whole of this distance, via Mont Cenis, is miles. The " Poonah " left Venice on Friday about mid-day, and reached Brindisi on Sunday forenoon, giving us the most of that day and the night at that place.

On Monday morn- ing we took in over bags of letters, for we carried, not. Cephalonia, with Ithaca" behind, is easily dis- tinguished ; then Zante and Navarino can be seen, and the coast looks bare and rugged as you reach Cape Matapan and Cerigo. A fine view of Crete is generally obtained, for the steamer passes close along its western coast, which is bold and picturesque. I passed here in January, ; a Greek insurrection had been going on in the island for some time, which the Turkish authorities seemed unable to put down.

At night we could see great fires among the mountains, as if they were beacons or signals. The Cretans have long pretended that Jupiter was buried in their island, and they have earned in past times a questionable reputation therefrom.

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Callimachus, in his hymn to Jupiter, says, " The Cretans are ever liars : for a tomb to thee, O King, the Cretans have con- structed. But thou art 'not dead. For thou existest ever. Paul quoted in his Epistle to Titus, " One of themselves, even a prophet of their own, said, The Cretians are always liars, evil beasts, slow bellies. It is not always the same, and it can be seen better in some places than in others. A few miles out from Alexandria, after leaving the deep water, and before reaching the impurities from the shore, you are in a good position to watch for this lovely blue.

Strange to say, the cause of this effect of colour hists not yet been made quite clear. People seeing it for the first time jump to the conclusion that it is the reflection from the sky, but I have seen it when there was no blue in the sky whatever, so it is not a reflected colour. I believe that the blue colour of the Lake of Geneva presents the same problem for explanation, and probably that also seen in a glacier.

It is satisfactory, at least, to find that, although we may not be able to explain why blue is blue, we can still gaze into it, and derive a pleasure from its beauty. We got into Alexandria about When we arrived, in November, , at Alexandria for the ceremonies at the opening of the Suez Canal, the first news received was that an impenetrable mass of rock had turned up in the canal at the Serapeum ; that it would be quite impossible to cut through it in time ; that the canal itself, generally speaking, was a complete failure; that Lesseps knew this all along, and that the rock at the Serapeum would put the inauguration out of the question.

There were people from all parts of the world, including an Empress, and an Emperor, Princes, and, great folks of all ranks; and so Lesseps, unable to carry on the imposture any longer, had that morning blown out his brains with a revolver. Such was the intelligence that first came on board our ship when we got into Alexandria.

Of course it was of Alexandrian manufacture. Alexandria had been all through jealous of the canal, and more particularly so of Port Said. It was to be a rival port. Port Said in its turn had a very free-and-easy way of talking about Alexandria. Port Said would in a short time be the Liverpool of Egypt; all the commerce of east and west would meet there ; and, of course, all the commerce of Egypt would follow. And when that time arrived, Alexandria would relapse into forgetfulness and obscurity, the sands of the desert would encroach upon it, and soon the page of history alone would tell that there had ever been such a place.

Was it to be wondered that Alexandria, looking at its upstart rival as depending on the canal for its success, regarded both as rank impostures?

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Such is the mode in which self-interest too often judges ; and now we see more clearly how far wrong both parties were in this case. For, on my last visit, I found that Alexandria, instead of relapsing, as it was predicted would be the case, to a desert condition, is busy carrying out plans to extend its harbour accommodation. It is also a part of the plan to build quays with jetties, so that the steamers can come alongside and discharge; their cargoes direct into the railway waggons. Already the- train comes down to a temporary landing, and takes the Peuiufiular and Oriental passengers, so that they do not require to put up at an hotel for the day ; but when the scheme is completed the steamer will herself be brought to the quay.

At present they are taken on shore by a steam tender, but it will then be like the landing at Dover. Away in the direction of the Ramleh station great num- bers of new houses have been run up. The Coptic church, which used to stand in a garden by itself, is now sur- rounded by houses. Everywhere there are building and constructive works going on, and from this it is pretty evident that the success of Port Said may be accom- plished without the annihilation of Alexandria.

One may recall to these rival ports the words Uncle Toby used in reference to himself and the fly, that there " is room in the world for both. The Suez Canal was very much misunder- stood in England.

It is now believed by many that it was a political bias which led to this. But whatever the motive, it certainly was the fact that every Englishman considered the canal to be a delusion carried on by the French for diplomatic reasons, and that the sands of the desert would fill it up again as soon as it was made. In the early part of January, , I went over the canal, at that time not finished, with a large party.

John Fowler, Dr. Kussell, and others. Lesseps, knowing that the canal was to be described with both pen and pencil, not only came himself as a cicerone, but brought the principal gentlemen connected with the works, to supply every information. The sand of the desert, so far as reported to be an obstacle to the making or filling up of the canal, turned out to be one of the most perfect myths on record. There was more trouble from the water than the sand. The north end had to pass through the water of Lake Menzaleh, and a solid bank on each side which had to be made was one of the most difficult parts of the whole undertaking.

One of the clearest evidences that the sand would not interfere with the desired result was that large portions of the canal made by the Pharaohs were still in existence, and were in use as part of the sweet- water canal. The portions we saw were at Chaloof, which is now one of the stations on the railway. Its length was a voyage of four days, and its width was such that two triremes might sail abreast. It joined the Nile near Bubastis, and was connected with the Red Sea by means of sluices.

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